Vladimir Putin's goal is to destroy Russian civil society | Lyudmila Alexeeva

Guardian World - 7 hours 44 min ago

For demanding fair elections and respect for the constitution, Russians are being treated as spies and traitors

I have been active in the human rights scene here since the dark days of the Soviet Union. As I look across today's Russia, I have every reason to believe that at the very top, the Kremlin has decided to destroy my country's civil society for daring to raise its head in protest against government repression and to demand fair elections and respect for the constitution.

From the end of the 80s to the middle of this century's first decade, a lively and active civil society formed in Russia. Today, it is an obstacle in the path of President Putin and his circle, who aim to form a harshly authoritarian, perhaps even totalitarian, regime.

It is precisely to destroy civil society – and primarily the human rights groups that form its backbone – that a series of repressive laws were adopted in 2012 by Russia's Duma, elected fraudulently and obedient to Putin. One of these laws requires that NGOs which receive funding from abroad and "engage in politics" voluntarily register as "foreign agents". This demand is the equivalent of Nazi Germany's demand that Jews don a yellow star.

This law is directed against human rights organisations that have to receive financing from foreign donors in order to maintain their independence – since neither the Russian government nor big business will support organisations whose goal is to protect citizens from violations of their rights by the state.

The foreign agents' law should not apply to human rights NGOs, as they do not engage in politics. However, the law defines the term "politics" as including "influencing the formation of public opinion" – and, of course, human rights NGOs do exactly that. For violating this law, NGOs face closure and fines of up to 500,000 rubles (£11,000), while their leaders face fines of up to 300,000 rubles and up to two years' imprisonment.

If the law demanded that NGOs register as organisations receiving foreign grants, all of us would register, as this would reflect the truth. But we cannot register as foreign agents. In Russia, "foreign agent" means "traitor", "spy". We are not agents of foreign governments or private foundations, as we do not carry out their instructions. To register as their agents would mean sacrificing our reputation.

Because not a single NGO registered as a foreign agent, several weeks ago the authorities began a mass wave of inspections across the country led by the state prosecutor, the ministry of justice and the tax authorities. We are aware of about 500 NGOs that have undergone such inspections – there are probably many more.

By law, the prosecutor has the right to conduct inspections only where there is evidence that a given organisation has, or is planning to, violate the law. The simultaneous inspection of hundreds of NGOs is a clearly illegal action by the prosecutor, whose mission is to ensure the law is obeyed.

Several dozen of the inspected NGOs have now received instructions stating that they are required to register as foreign agents. Golos, which organised election observers who uncovered massive falsifications during the parliamentary and presidential elections of 2011-2012, was the first to be sanctioned by the courts, receiving a fine of 300,000 rubles. All of these organisations are on the verge of being closed down.

The Moscow Helsinki Group, Russia's oldest human rights organisation, awaits this fate by the end of May, as do others. It is absolutely clear that Vladimir Putin's goal, as he begins his third term in office, is to destroy all independent civic activity. It is clear he fears that otherwise he will not succeed in retaining his office, let alone strengthening his authoritarian regime.

Lyudmila Alexeeva
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Is 'binge-watching' the best way to view TV shows? | Poll

Guardian World - 7 hours 53 min ago

Netflix's unorthodox release of an entire TV series at once has helped popularize marathon sessions of watching. Do you prefer your shows in one sitting?


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Is 'binge-watching' the best way to view TV shows? | Poll

Guardian Tech - 7 hours 53 min ago

Netflix's unorthodox release of an entire TV series at once has helped popularize marathon sessions of watching. Do you prefer your shows in one sitting?


    

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Is 'binge-watching' the best way to view TV shows? | Poll

Guardian USA - 7 hours 53 min ago

Netflix's unorthodox release of an entire TV series at once has helped popularize marathon sessions of watching. Do you prefer your shows in one sitting?


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Boy Scouts decision to allow openly gay youth members garners mixed reaction

Guardian World - 7 hours 53 min ago

While some gay-rights supporters praised vote's outcome, others were disappointed in continued ban on gay adult leaders

While some gay-rights supporters praised Thursday's vote by the Boy Scouts of America in favor of formally accepting openly gay scouts, others were disappointed in the group's decision to continue to block gay scout leaders.

The Boy Scouts will formally accept openly gay boys beginning 1 January 2014, after more than 60% of its members voted Thursday in favor of ending the longstanding ban. Many conservatives within the scouts were distraught at the outcome of the vote and some threatened to defect. A meeting is planned for next month to discuss the formation of a new organization for boys.

"Within our movement, everyone agrees on one thing, no matter how you feel about this issue, kids are better off in scouting," said BSA president Wayne Perry after the vote. "Our vision is to serve every kid. We want every kid to have a place where they belong, to learn and grow and feel protected."

The organization added one sentence to the membership rules that permits gay youth from entering the organization. While gay rights advocates hailed the decision as a step forward, many were disappointed in the group's decision to block gay leaders from being a part of the organization.

"I wish I could say it's a step forward, but unfortunately, I think it actually makes things worse," said James Dale, the first person to bring a legal challenge against the BSA policy. "I think it's a bit of a step backward."

Dale was dismissed from his position as a volunteer scoutmaster after being quoted in a paper about LGBT issues. He challenged the dismissal in a case that was eventually brought to the US supreme court in 2000.

"This doesn't give younger gays a future," Dale told the New Jersey Star Ledger. "The Boy Scouts are still sending a destructive message."

White House spokesman Shin Inouye said President Barack Obama welcomed the Scouts' decision regarding gay youth but "continues to believe that leadership positions in the Scouts should be open to all, regardless of sexual orientation."

Pascal Tessier, an openly gay 16-year-old scout from Maryland, was told recently by his council that he would not be able to receive his Eagle scout award, the highest honor in scouting, unless the resolution passed.

"Just a few hours ago, I was thinking that today could be my last day as a Boy Scout," said Tessier, pictured. "Obviously, for gay scouts like me, this vote is life-changing."

"I'm so proud of how far we've come, but until there's a place for everyone in Scouting, my work will continue," said Jennifer Tyrrell, whose ouster as a Cub Scout den leader in Ohio because she is lesbian launched a national protest movement.

Tyrrell recalled having to tell her son she had been forced out as den mother.

"He doesn't deserve to be told that we're not good enough," she said. "We're not going to stop until this is over."

More than 1,200 delegates voted at the annual meeting in Texas, with just over 60% supporting an end to the ban. Texas governor Rick Perry, a former boy scout who ran an unsuccessful campaign for the Republican presidential nomination in 2012, lamented the decision.

"The Boys Scouts of America has been built upon the values of faith and family for more than 100 years and today's decision contradicts generations of tradition in the name of political correctness," Perry said in a statement. "While I will always cherish my time as a scout and the life lessons I learned, I am greatly disappointed with this decision."

His opinions were echoed, at times much more vehemently, by numerous conservative and anti-gay groups including the Family Research Council.

The group's president Tony Perkins said in a statement that the decision was "another casualty in moral compromise."

"It is clear that the current BSA leadership will bend with the winds of popular culture, and the whims of liberal special interest groups," said Perkins. "There is little doubt that God will soon be ushered out of scouting."

Religious groups sponsor 70% of the more than 100,000 scouting units in the US. While some including the Roman Catholic Church, the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints and Southern Baptist churches have supported the ban in the past, others think it should be revoked.

Amanda Holpuch
guardian.co.uk © 2013 Guardian News and Media Limited or its affiliated companies. All rights reserved. | Use of this content is subject to our Terms & Conditions | More Feeds

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Boy Scouts decision to allow openly gay youth members garners mixed reaction

Guardian USA - 7 hours 53 min ago

While some gay-rights supporters praised vote's outcome, others were disappointed in continued ban on gay adult leaders

While some gay-rights supporters praised Thursday's vote by the Boy Scouts of America in favor of formally accepting openly gay scouts, others were disappointed in the group's decision to continue to block gay scout leaders.

The Boy Scouts will formally accept openly gay boys beginning 1 January 2014, after more than 60% of its members voted Thursday in favor of ending the longstanding ban. Many conservatives within the scouts were distraught at the outcome of the vote and some threatened to defect. A meeting is planned for next month to discuss the formation of a new organization for boys.

"Within our movement, everyone agrees on one thing, no matter how you feel about this issue, kids are better off in scouting," said BSA president Wayne Perry after the vote. "Our vision is to serve every kid. We want every kid to have a place where they belong, to learn and grow and feel protected."

The organization added one sentence to the membership rules that permits gay youth from entering the organization. While gay rights advocates hailed the decision as a step forward, many were disappointed in the group's decision to block gay leaders from being a part of the organization.

"I wish I could say it's a step forward, but unfortunately, I think it actually makes things worse," said James Dale, the first person to bring a legal challenge against the BSA policy. "I think it's a bit of a step backward."

Dale was dismissed from his position as a volunteer scoutmaster after being quoted in a paper about LGBT issues. He challenged the dismissal in a case that was eventually brought to the US supreme court in 2000.

"This doesn't give younger gays a future," Dale told the New Jersey Star Ledger. "The Boy Scouts are still sending a destructive message."

White House spokesman Shin Inouye said President Barack Obama welcomed the Scouts' decision regarding gay youth but "continues to believe that leadership positions in the Scouts should be open to all, regardless of sexual orientation."

Pascal Tessier, an openly gay 16-year-old scout from Maryland, was told recently by his council that he would not be able to receive his Eagle scout award, the highest honor in scouting, unless the resolution passed.

"Just a few hours ago, I was thinking that today could be my last day as a Boy Scout," said Tessier, pictured. "Obviously, for gay scouts like me, this vote is life-changing."

"I'm so proud of how far we've come, but until there's a place for everyone in Scouting, my work will continue," said Jennifer Tyrrell, whose ouster as a Cub Scout den leader in Ohio because she is lesbian launched a national protest movement.

Tyrrell recalled having to tell her son she had been forced out as den mother.

"He doesn't deserve to be told that we're not good enough," she said. "We're not going to stop until this is over."

More than 1,200 delegates voted at the annual meeting in Texas, with just over 60% supporting an end to the ban. Texas governor Rick Perry, a former boy scout who ran an unsuccessful campaign for the Republican presidential nomination in 2012, lamented the decision.

"The Boys Scouts of America has been built upon the values of faith and family for more than 100 years and today's decision contradicts generations of tradition in the name of political correctness," Perry said in a statement. "While I will always cherish my time as a scout and the life lessons I learned, I am greatly disappointed with this decision."

His opinions were echoed, at times much more vehemently, by numerous conservative and anti-gay groups including the Family Research Council.

The group's president Tony Perkins said in a statement that the decision was "another casualty in moral compromise."

"It is clear that the current BSA leadership will bend with the winds of popular culture, and the whims of liberal special interest groups," said Perkins. "There is little doubt that God will soon be ushered out of scouting."

Religious groups sponsor 70% of the more than 100,000 scouting units in the US. While some including the Roman Catholic Church, the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints and Southern Baptist churches have supported the ban in the past, others think it should be revoked.

Amanda Holpuch
guardian.co.uk © 2013 Guardian News and Media Limited or its affiliated companies. All rights reserved. | Use of this content is subject to our Terms & Conditions | More Feeds

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Yahoo 'makes offer' for Hulu as bidding war escalates

Guardian World - 7 hours 56 min ago

Reports link tech giant to online video service which is also coveted by Time Warner, William Morris and more

The online video service Hulu is at the centre of a frenzied bidding war, according to US media reports, with the tech giant Yahoo rumoured to have made an offer for the second time in its history.

With the ink is barely dry on its $1.1bn deal to buy the lite-blogging platform Tumblr, Yahoo made a formal proposal to buy Hulu on Friday morning, according to the tech news websiteAllthingsD.com and the news agency Reuters.

Yahoo told the Guardian it "would not comment on rumour or speculation" in regards to the reported offer.

A deal would confirm Yahoo's fresh drive into "native" advertising – branded or sponsored editorial content – led by chief executive Marissa Meyer. Yahoo made an earlier, unsuccessful attempt to buy the French video site Daily Motion; the move was vetoed by the French government in April.

Yahoo faces some hefty competition for Hulu, which is co-owned by Disney, News Corp and Comcast. Offers are reported to have been made by Time Warner, News Corp executive Peter Chernin, satellite operator DirecTV, talent agency William Morris and two investment firms, Guggenheim Digital Media and KKR.

Yahoo first approached Hulu in 2011 under Carol Bartz, when Hulu had recruited Morgan Stanley to find a buyer – without success.

Jemima Kiss
guardian.co.uk © 2013 Guardian News and Media Limited or its affiliated companies. All rights reserved. | Use of this content is subject to our Terms & Conditions | More Feeds

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Yahoo 'makes offer' for Hulu as bidding war escalates

Guardian Tech - 7 hours 56 min ago

Reports link tech giant to online video service which is also coveted by Time Warner, William Morris and more

The online video service Hulu is at the centre of a frenzied bidding war, according to US media reports, with the tech giant Yahoo rumoured to have made an offer for the second time in its history.

With the ink is barely dry on its $1.1bn deal to buy the lite-blogging platform Tumblr, Yahoo made a formal proposal to buy Hulu on Friday morning, according to the tech news websiteAllthingsD.com and the news agency Reuters.

Yahoo told the Guardian it "would not comment on rumour or speculation" in regards to the reported offer.

A deal would confirm Yahoo's fresh drive into "native" advertising – branded or sponsored editorial content – led by chief executive Marissa Meyer. Yahoo made an earlier, unsuccessful attempt to buy the French video site Daily Motion; the move was vetoed by the French government in April.

Yahoo faces some hefty competition for Hulu, which is co-owned by Disney, News Corp and Comcast. Offers are reported to have been made by Time Warner, News Corp executive Peter Chernin, satellite operator DirecTV, talent agency William Morris and two investment firms, Guggenheim Digital Media and KKR.

Yahoo first approached Hulu in 2011 under Carol Bartz, when Hulu had recruited Morgan Stanley to find a buyer – without success.

Jemima Kiss
guardian.co.uk © 2013 Guardian News and Media Limited or its affiliated companies. All rights reserved. | Use of this content is subject to our Terms & Conditions | More Feeds

    

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Yahoo 'makes offer' for Hulu as bidding war escalates

Guardian USA - 7 hours 56 min ago

Reports link tech giant to online video service which is also coveted by Time Warner, William Morris and more

The online video service Hulu is at the centre of a frenzied bidding war, according to US media reports, with the tech giant Yahoo rumoured to have made an offer for the second time in its history.

With the ink is barely dry on its $1.1bn deal to buy the lite-blogging platform Tumblr, Yahoo made a formal proposal to buy Hulu on Friday morning, according to the tech news websiteAllthingsD.com and the news agency Reuters.

Yahoo told the Guardian it "would not comment on rumour or speculation" in regards to the reported offer.

A deal would confirm Yahoo's fresh drive into "native" advertising – branded or sponsored editorial content – led by chief executive Marissa Meyer. Yahoo made an earlier, unsuccessful attempt to buy the French video site Daily Motion; the move was vetoed by the French government in April.

Yahoo faces some hefty competition for Hulu, which is co-owned by Disney, News Corp and Comcast. Offers are reported to have been made by Time Warner, News Corp executive Peter Chernin, satellite operator DirecTV, talent agency William Morris and two investment firms, Guggenheim Digital Media and KKR.

Yahoo first approached Hulu in 2011 under Carol Bartz, when Hulu had recruited Morgan Stanley to find a buyer – without success.

Jemima Kiss
guardian.co.uk © 2013 Guardian News and Media Limited or its affiliated companies. All rights reserved. | Use of this content is subject to our Terms & Conditions | More Feeds

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Howto: Managing dotfiles with dfm

r/linux - 8 hours 1 min ago
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Letters: Coalition is past its sell-by date

Guardian World - 8 hours 14 min ago

After three years of Tory-Lib Dem coalition, our economy remains in the doldrums, performing much worse than that of the US, where President Obama has achieved a deal of stimulus despite obstruction by Congress. We have a health service under increasing pressure and sliding with government encouragement into private hands; we have education being planned by the whim of a secretary of state whose latest wheeze is schools run by army officers; we have a welfare state re-engineered to produce homelessness, hardship and ever-growing child poverty.

Small wonder that more than 60% of the electorate disapprove of what this government is doing and want them gone, though how that will pan out in seats in the parliament to be elected in 2015 is uncertain. It is possible that the arithmetic might allow for the Labour-Lib Dem coalition that Martin Kettle is now advocating (Comment, 23 May), but politically at this moment the Lib Dems are part of the problem – they have voted solidly for every one of those Tory measures – and not part of the solution.

Is a politics in which the Lib Dems spend five years in alliance with the Tories demolishing the welfare state and the next five years in alliance with Labour rebuilding it for real? Either they believe in what they have been voting for or they don't; and in either case, what credence can be put in them post-2015? The illusion that the Lib Dems are a progressive party is one that Martin Kettle has been peddling for years, but with Nick Clegg recommitting to the coalition with David Cameron to the bitter end, it should surely be clear even to him it has reached its sell-by date.
Pete Ruhemann
Reading


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Letters: Our use of Hellfire missiles could come back to haunt us

Guardian World - 8 hours 14 min ago

Simon Jenkins has shown courage in connecting the criminal outrage in Woolwich with the participation of the UK in the use of drones to destroy whole village communities in Afghanistan (An echo chamber of mass hysteria only aids terrorists, 24 May). He is surely correct when he poignantly remarks: "Of course, people should be able to walk peacefully down the street in London. They should also be able to walk peacefully in Kandahar, Yemen or Baluchistan."

We should be very grateful that our home-grown religiously inspired fanatics have not yet got their hands on a Hellfire missile, the standard weapon of choice used by Predator and Reaper drones operated by the US and UK in Afghanistan, and by the US in Pakistan, Yemen, Somalia and elsewhere. This missile can carry an anti-personnel charge which allows one missile to kill dozens, even hundreds of people. It is not difficult to imagine more sophisticated jihadists being able to mount such a missile on the roof-rack of a car (they weigh about 100-150kg), perhaps hidden in a roll of carpet. It could then be fired into a crowded market place and achieve a kill-rate comparable to that obtained in Afghanistan by the drone pilots based at RAF Waddington.

As Menzies Campbell correctly points out (Syria needs help but it does not need arms, 24 May), if William Hague gets his way and is allowed to supply sophisticated weapons to the Free Syrian Army, they will inevitably end up in the hands of the jihadists of the al-Nusra front. According to most reports, the latter is now doing the bulk of the fighting in Syria on "our" side and might demand access to the most effective weaponry from the FSA. It is not beyond the bounds of possibility that they would not mind supplying the odd missile or two to their fellow religious fanatics in the UK. It is even said that UK-born jihadists are already fighting in Syria with al-Nusra.
Dr David Hookes
Liverpool

• President Obama has defended his country's drone attacks as "legal, effective and a necessary tool in an evolving US counter-terrorism policy" (Report, 23 May). According to the Bureau of Investigative Journalism, Obama approved 300 drone strikes in Pakistan alone between 2009 and 2012, that killed 2,152 people, including 290 civilians, 64 of whom were children. This is a higher death toll than the Bush administration in the period 2004-09, which launched 52 strikes, killing 438, including 182 civilians, 112 of whom were children. This comparison bears close scrutiny for those – including the Nobel Foundation – who feel that Obama represents a turn to a more enlightened page in US history. 
Stephen McCloskey
Centre for Global Education, Belfast


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Letters: At the going down of the sun

Guardian World - 8 hours 14 min ago

I wholeheartedly endorse the anti-war sentiments expressed by Jude Law et al (Letters, 22 May). It may be worth reminding David Cameron, before he goes on to mark the anniversary of the first world war with a "truly national commemoration of national spirit", that the so-called "war memorials" erected throughout the land after the war were originally called "peace memorials". If you look at two politically neutral guidebooks, in Arthur Mee's The King's England, in the 30s, you will see them referred to in a quite matter-of-fact way as "peace memorials", whereas three decades and another world war later, Nikolaus Pevsner's The Buildings of England describes them as "war memorials". Let any modern memorial mark that peace, and remember with humility the suffering and sacrifice on all sides rather than by taking pride in "national spirit".
Austen Lynch
Garstang, Lancashire

• So David Cameron plans to spend £55m commemorating the 100th anniversary of the beginning of the first world war. I trust he will commemorate the West Indies Regiment. On 6 December 1918, 180 sergeants forwarded a petition to the secretary of state complaining about the levels of pay, which were much lower than for white troops, and the failure to increase their separation allowance, as well as discriminations in promotion. On the same day, the men of the 9th Battalion revolted as they had been forced to work as labourers, including cleaning the latrines of the Italian Labour Corps. So shall we also be commemorating British racism during the war?
Marika Sherwood
Sr research fellow, Institute of Commonwealth Studies, University of London

• David Cameron is unlikely to take the good advice of Jude Law et al and "promote peace and international co-operation", especially given his current Ukip infatuation. However, individuals can decide to wear "never again" white poppies in 2014 as a reminder that, in almost all cases, war is a choice and peace an alternative. In doing so, they would also show sincere respect for those who have died or been wounded in war by signalling that they do not want such avoidable loss and suffering to happen again.
Richard Stainton
Whitstable, Kent

• If Martin Adams (Letters, 22 May) had read the article on the previous page by Guy Standing, about the progressive stripping of social security rights from working and unemployed people since the time of Margaret Thatcher, perhaps he would not have written about "the acts of bravery that helped ensure that this and other nations were not enslaved", since that enslavement is precisely what so many of the unemployed, the disabled, the low-paid and the mentally ill experience as their daily lot.
Fr Julian Dunn
Great Haseley, Oxfordshire

• I thought the whole point of continued remembrance of the two world wars, and all wars, was to help to avoid starting another. Every November, across the world, there are thousands of services where lines from poems of Laurence Binyon and John McCrae are spoken: At the going down of the sun and in the morning / We will remember them (For the Fallen); If ye break faith with us who die / We shall not sleep, though poppies grow / In Flanders' Fields (In Flanders' Fields). Are these words not meant to be taken to heart?
K Vines
Yelverton, Devon

• The first world war was labelled the war to end war. The second world war, the war to end tyranny. War and tyranny still flourish. Both wars were failures. Those who died or were maimed for life fighting or sheltering from bombing or fleeing or starving were not the only casualties. Their families, their communities, their nations and their economies were all deeply affected for many years. At 88, my memories of both wars – my parents' and my own – still bring me to tears. They failed. We need, as communities, to remember the suffering wars bring about, to recognise that to try to solve conflict by violent means, by war, will fail. I shall be adding my name to ww1.stopwar.org.uk and urging my friends to do the same.
Audrey Urry
Bridport, Dorset


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Country diary: Aberdaron: The headland is, as ever, spacious and bathed in that distinctive western light

Guardian World - 8 hours 14 min ago

Aberdaron: I scan with my glass. No sign. Has the winter been too hard for the vulnerable, beautiful little choughs?

The once-quiet fishing cove of Porth Meudwy, west of Aberdaron and embarkation point for Ynys Enlli, is busy these days. Pyramids of lobster pots are piled high round the slipway, new twin-hulled boats drawn up on the pebbles. More working boats circle the bay, hauling their catch. The recently completed Wales Coastal Path, one of the finest sections of which begins here, has added to the spruced-up air. I climb the long sequences of steps to clifftop level and head west for Pen y Cil, abandoned quarry workings at Porth Cloch glinting in the sun beneath.

The cliff badger sett – one of the few in Wales that remained undug during the monstrous 80s, when Welsh badgers were regularly sent to city dog-pits – has flourished in recent years, with fresh evidence of their activity all around. This is sheep country, so their existence is relatively safe. The new path has been diverted away from the cliff edge and no longer arrives at a belvedere that gives the sudden, breathtaking view of Ynys Enlli across the sound. I used to enjoy the rock-scramble up the ridge above. Signs now warn you away from its delights.

The headland is as it ever was, spacious and bathed in that distinctive light of the west – glowing and diffuse. The long-time residents, the peregrines and the kestrels that nest among contorted strata at the back of Parwyd bay, put in appearances, arrowing past in swift intensity. A mile on, when I reach the low col behind Trwyn y Gwyddel ("the Irishman's Nose"), it's an absence, not a presence, that is felt. Not once in 50 years have I failed to see choughs feeding across this slope. I scan with my glass. No sign. Has the winter been too hard for these vulnerable, beautiful little red-legged crows?

Suddenly the sky is full of whistling cries, tumbling flight. Half a dozen birds scatter down into the heather. I could almost weep with relief.

Jim Perrin
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Trekking in the Himalayas: how to do it

Guardian World - 8 hours 14 min ago

Since the first successful ascent of Mount Everest, 60 years ago next week, the Himalayas have become far more accessible to walkers. We round up this amazing region's best treks, across Nepal, India, Pakistan, Tibet and even Burma

Hindu scriptures say that in "a hundred ages of the gods" you could not do justice to the Himalayas. So where do mere mortals start? Knowing where to go in an area 10 times the size of France is daunting, especially when just getting there is expensive. Everest gets most of the headlines, but the Himalayas are vast, especially when you include mountain ranges west of the Indus – the Pamir, Hindu Kush and Karakoram.

This 4,000km crescent, stretching from Kyrgyzstan to Burma, is a geography of superlatives – the highest mountains, the deepest gorges, tracts of wild forest, the rolling high plateau of Tibet plus, in Bhutan and the Indian state of Assam in the eastern Himalayas, some of the greatest biodiversity on the planet.

Then there are the people. It is true that in some areas the Himalayas are wild and barely populated, but in most there is an incredible diversity of cultures that have adapted to surviving in an environment that can be exceptionally hostile as well as incredibly beautiful.

These huge peaks are also the meeting point for three of the world's great religions: Islam in the west, Hinduism to the south and Tibetan Buddhism to the north.

It's an incredibly dynamic region. New roads and airports are making some areas more accessible, while diminishing the appeal of others, like the famous Annapurna Circuit in Nepal.

Political change has also altered horizons. Mountains along the northern border of Burma have recently become accessible for the first time in decades, while visa restrictions and unrest in Tibet have made travelling there more difficult.

Trekking is also changing. Many assume walking in the Himalayas is only for rugged types who enjoy roughing it. That was true in 1953, when Everest was first climbed and trekking tourism didn't exist. Now there are new ways to experience the Himalayas: luxury lodges for those looking to take in the views with a bit of comfort; treks that focus as much on culture as scenery; and new lodges and homestays for those who want to relax and get beneath the surface of Himalayan life.

The walking itself is usually not too difficult, no more so than in the Lake District – apart from the altitude, of course. It's the altitude, along with problems of travelling in one of the least developed regions of Asia and fears about hygiene, that put some people off. Staying healthy in the Himalayas is certainly more difficult than it is at home, but if you're used to walking and are cautious about gaining altitude then you're unlikely to have any problems. And the rewards are spectacular.

Where, when and how

The summer monsoon is much heavier in the eastern Himalayas than it is in the west, and so the most popular trekking periods in much of India, Nepal and the region east of there are April and October. Skies tend to be clearer in the autumn, although it's colder too, but that's when Everest and other popular treks are at their busiest.

If you want to trek in the summer holidays, then look further west. Zanskar and Ladakh, largely Tibetan Buddhist in terms of its population but politically part of the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir, are north of the Himalayan chain and enjoy much better weather in July and August. These are also the best months for K2 and the rest of the Karakoram, including Kashmir, and the Hindu Kush.

The most popular trekking areas – like Everest, the Annapurna region and Ladakh's Markha valley – have a network of basic lodges to stay in, opening up these areas to independent trekkers who don't want to carry a tent and are on a more limited budget. It's also possible to reach Annapurna, or Nepal's Langtang region, by bus, without the need for costly internal flights.

For those with a bit more to spend, there are off-the-peg itineraries from specialist travel agents in the UK. The best of these use good local outfitters and provide a guide, either western or a local who speaks good English. For those who don't want the hassle of organising transport and accommodation, this kind of trip is perfect – and for camping treks in remote areas, they're essential. You can also approach a local agent directly, which is useful if you have a group of friends who want to trek together.

Mount Everest

Since Nepal's civil war ended in 2006, the number of trekkers visiting the Everest region has more than doubled to 35,000 a year. At the height of the season, around 60 flights land at Lukla airport each day. The Sherpa town of Namche Bazaar, the gateway to Everest base camp and used for altitude acclimatisation, now has better mobile coverage than much of Snowdonia. So if you go in peak season, expect a crowd. If you have a group of mates who all want to see Everest, most companies will organise a private tour.

World Expeditions is one of the biggest operators, running over 20 treks this year, with accommodation a mixture of camping and lodges on the classic standard trek to Everest base camp. An 18-day trek costs £1,650, which it can also arrange. Some of its autumn departures are already full, so hurry if you want to go in the diamond jubilee year of the first ascent.

If you prefer a bit more comfort, there are now two chains of luxury lodges on the way to base camp, Yeti Mountain Homes and Everest Summit Lodges. We're not talking five-star spas here, but an en suite bathroom and a hot water bottle are a big step up from standard lodges.

Specialist trekking company Mountain Kingdoms offers a 19-day package starting at £2,245 that also offers nights at Kathmandu's stunning heritage hotel, Dwarika's.

If you're looking to beat the crowds, trekking guide Bonny Masson has this advice: "If you've got the time, do the original trek the British expedition took in 1953." This started in Kathmandu, but a bus will now take you to the end of the road just beyond the town of Jiri. The trail beyond is a tougher walk than the stages from Lukla, which most people now reach by air. "You'll get a better slice of life in Solukhumbu and the trails are quieter." Alternatively you can trek out of season, in December or February, when numbers are down and the trails are quieter. But you should be prepared for lower temperatures.

Adventurous types can trek to the little-visited east face of Everest inside Tibet via the Kama valley, one of the least known but most beautiful approaches to the world's highest peak. Unlike the Nepalese side, this wild valley has hardly changed at all. In recent years, the visa situation in Tibet has been inconsistent, but that now seems to be settling down. KE Adventure Travel offers a 20-day trip out of Kathmandu, including nine days of trekking, for £2,995.

More than just trekking

Stunning views are what prompt many to go trekking, but the Himalayas is an incredibly diverse region culturally. For those who want to combine great walking with gaining an insight into how people live in such an extraordinary region, there's now a wide range of holidays offering treks combined with other activities.

Wild Frontiers, known for its stylish approach to adventure travel, now offers some excellent journeys that include trekking. It is one of the few companies that will take you trekking in Kashmir, a wonderful place to walk in the summer, and then pamper you on a houseboat on Dal Lake (10 days from £1,690). It also runs an amazing trip, sadly full for 2013, to the Hindu Kush (17 days from £2,395) that mixes a visit to the Kalash area with trekking on the Pakistan-Afghan border, along the Wakhan Corridor.

At the other end of the Himalayas, far to the east, Mountain Kingdoms is one of the first to offer a trek in northern Burma (20-day trip from £2,645) through pristine jungle and along rocky outcrops to reach the snow-capped Mount Phongun Razi. Trekking here mixes the jungle appeal of other parts of south-east Asia with the high drama of the Himalayas – and the opportunity to explore Rangoon and the temples of Bagan. And if you're looking for something a bit less strenuous, there is an alternative itinerary through the foothills.

Gentle trekking

If trekking was developed for explorer types who see disaster as a welcome change of pace, then the industry has done a great deal to broaden its appeal. Young backpackers have been wandering around the foothills of Nepal's Annapurna range for decades now, arriving in Pokhara by bus and surviving on next to nothing. World Expeditions offers an off-the-peg 11-day equivalent for newbie trekkers from £990, which takes in the pretty villages of Landruk and Ghandruk. You won't sleep higher than 2,500 metres but you'll still get stunning views of the Annapurna range and the colossal pyramid of Dhaulagiri, seventh-highest peak in the world.

The Mountain Company offers an 11-day beautiful village walk in India's Kumaon mountains in Uttarakhand. You stay in basic but homely accommodation en route, on easy trails between villages, and end with a few days at the luxurious and very relaxing Himalayan retreat Shakti 360° Leti (a 10-night package including accommodation in Delhi is £1,410pp).

Once kids get over the initial shock of the idea that a walk can last for days, not hours, trekking can be a brilliant family trip option. Exodus offers a great itinerary in Ladakh for families that takes in visits to Tibetan monasteries, rafting on the Indus and a three-day trek that crosses the Sarmanchan La, a pass that reaches 3,750m. Prices start from £1,899, including flights, and the trip is suitable for ages eight plus.

Nepal is also a great place to take children, combining a trek with a visit to Chitwan national park, close to the border with India, where they can see wildlife and ride elephants. Steve Webster is a long-time resident of Nepal who runs Escape2Nepal, a small travel company specialising in "soft" adventures that are just right for children – its 15-day family adventure trip costs £1,720pp. He also has a quiet guesthouse, Shivapuri Heights, on the outskirts of Kathmandu, away from the ever-increasing noise of Thamel, the city's tourist district.

Wild trekking

Although tourism in the Himalayas is changing fast, it's still possible to do a big trek in the wildest landscape on Earth. These really are for the hardier trekker, with weeks of camping and a tolerance for serious walking and high altitude. In Pakistan's spectacular Karakoram mountain range, there are fewer villages in the high mountains, and treks feel remote and exploratory.

The jewel in the crown is the trek to K2's base camp, taking you past some of the most beautiful peaks you've probably never heard of, like the Trango Towers and Masherbrum, before reaching Concordia, the confluence of two mighty glaciers with spectacular views of K2 itself. It takes around 15 days, walking eight miles a day, to reach base camp and leave via the Gondoro La, a pass of over 5,400m, into the beautiful Hushe valley. Previous trekking experience is essential. KE Adventure offers a 22-day itinerary starting at £2,495.

While the Annapurna massif is as beautiful as ever, the construction of a road up the Kali Gandaki, the world's deepest gorge, to link Pokhara with the Tibetan border, has abruptly terminated interest in trekking the well-established Annapurna circuit. No one wants to trek beside a road. A new road is also being driven on the eastern side of the massif, towards the village of Manang.

Luckily for Nepal's trekking industry, the long and arduous trek around Manaslu, higher than Annapurna and just to its east, is plugging this self-inflicted wound. Mountain Kingdoms offers a slightly different route in the early part of this increasingly popular trek that makes each one of the 18 days it takes to loop around the Manaslu Circuit's remote north side as culturally fascinating as it is spectacular. The trip costs £1,725 and is the perfect introduction to the wilder side of Himalayan trekking.

If those two aren't enough for you, then consider the Great Himalayan Trail , which traverses the length of Nepal's high mountains, broken down into 10 sections, each of which takes around two to three weeks. The Mountain Company is offering the first section – between the world's third-highest mountain Kanchenjunga and Makalu – this October from £3,195.

• Unless stated, prices exclude international flights

Ed Douglas
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